我在巴黎生活了整整一年
2003到2003年间,在兰诺街五号
一间明亮可爱的公园里
就在巴黎先贤祠之下,从圣日耳曼大街上山
我做过所有者巴黎的美国人理应做的事情:
我倒圣米歇尔街取来我早晨的长法棍面包,
溜达进卢森堡公园,
参观巴黎植物园里的动物园
此处启发了里尔克伟大的诗篇”豹子“。
我坐在杜伊勒里公园的长凳上,
看着通过塞纳河的苍蝇船。
我在双叟咖啡馆饮着我的意大利式咖啡,
不远处是萨特座过的桌子。我听见
我听见圣但尼大街上传来的《小吉米.史密斯》
读着我的双语版的波德莱尔,
与兰波感同身受,人生有时就是一出
吹捧的闹剧。我在马来曲吃炸豆丸子,
看到我的罗丹,也看到毕加索。我这巴黎
没有美丽的情人,连相貌平凡的一个也没有。
许多夜晚我独自穿过巴黎新桥--
巴黎有许多迷人的东西,
那是一定的。但所有之中我记忆最深的
是学院街的这家美国晚餐饭店,
星期天早晨我和儿子坐在那里
梦着家乡,无论乡关何处。
I lived in Paris an entire year
between 2003 and 2004, in a
bright lovely flat at 5, Rue Lanneau
just below the Panthéon, up the hill
from the Boulevard Saint-Germain.
I did all the things Americans in Paris
are supposed to do: I went
for my morning baguette in Saint Michel,
strolled in the Jardin du Luxembourg,
visited the zoo in the Jardin des Plantes
where Rilke’s great poem “The Panther”
was inspired. I sat on the benches of the
Jardin des Tuileries, watched les bateaux-mouches
traversing the Seine. I drank my expresso
at Deux Magots, not far from the table
where Sartre sat. I heard Little Jimmy Smith
off the Rue St. Denis, read my bilingual Baudelaire,
felt with Rimbaud that life was sometimes la farce
à mener par tous. I ate falafel in the Marais,
saw my Rodin, my Picasso too. I had not one
beautiful lover in Paris, nor even a homely one.
Many night I traversed le pont neuf alone—
there was much to be charmed by in Paris,
that’s for sure. But what I remember best of all
is the American Diner on the Rue des Écoles,
sitting there Sunday mornings with my son,
dreaming of home, wherever that was.